Did you know that. . .?
• Flour dust is explosive.
• The iron compound found in enriched flour is also used as a common weed killer.
• Glucose, the form of sugar that adds bulk and sweetness to Twinkies’ crumb and filling, also adds glossiness to shoe leather and prolongs concrete setting.
• Homeland Security figures prominently in modern food production.
• Only a small percentage of the 750 million pounds of cornstarch that’s manufactured annually goes into food like Twinkies. Two-thirds is used to make paper, cardboard, and packaging “peanuts.”
• When cooked, cotton cellulose is transformed into an incredibly soft goo, perfect for lending a slippery sensation to the filling in snack cakes--and rocket fuel.
• Soda ash finds its way into much of what we eat, which is pretty alarming, considering that it is also the primary component of glass and soap.
• Phosphorus, one of the seven elements necessary for life, is also what puts the glow in tracer bullets and causes artillery shells to explode.
Some angles and pegs:
Twinkie, Deconstructed touches on nutrition, food science, consumerism, eating, baking, home cooking, and even history and geology.
A few common questions and short answers (please feel free to quote directly):
Why did you tackle this subject? What makes you qualified to write Twinkie, Deconstructed?
I’ve long been into food reference, starting with The Kitchenware Book (1992), which led me to understand some unusual foods. When I wrote The Restaurant Lovers’ Companion in 1993, I looked into many odd ingredients of ethnic foods, and loved the research. And having had to explain things like hops in Beer For Dummies, I was used to this kind of project.
Why focus on the Twinkie?
There are thousands of artificial ingredients, and I needed to find a way to make this work as a readable book, not a reference book. I realized I should try to find one well-known product that had just the right number of ingredients for a book, with ingredients that represented the whole range of kinds of food additives. I considered many products, but Twinkies really fill the bill. The Twinkies ingredient list is actually my table of contents, but the text covers all kinds of artificial ingredients.
What are some of the basic themes that you uncovered in the course of your research?
Artificial ingredients, whether for Twinkies or any other popular, common, processed food, are often made with raw ingredients or sub ingredients that come from all over the world, notably China. Most of these ingredients are made by enormous international companies that have no plans to reveal how they make our food.
What are some of the most surprising things you learned?
That we eat lots of rocks. And petroleum. When I started, I was certain that most things, like sorbic acid or various vitamins, were extracted from plants. Not so, not at all, it turns out. Also, that a lot of toxic things like carbon monoxide and chlorine gas are used to make food, but they only help with reactions and don’t add any toxicity to the food product.
Are you pleased with the book?
I’m very happy with it, but I constantly struggled to limit the writing to the ingredients at hand. There is so much interesting stuff out there on other ingredients, or on nutrition, that it was often hard to stop. Also, I wanted to put more of my personal experience from the trips to the sites, but the book would have been quite unwieldy and extremely long if I had. It is the ingredients that matter, not my trip. I would have loved to stand in the ground where EVERY raw material comes from, but that would have been impossible. (At the very least, it would have entailed standing on a lot of middle eastern or Chinese oil wells.) I’m very proud that I was able to identify the raw source of every artificial ingredient, including the sub-ingredients. It all comes from somewhere in the ground, eventually.
And I love the fact that the index has things like “diketene” and “ding dong” right next to each other. In fact, the index, which is on this web site, is fun to read. No other book can make such a claim.
What is your favorite ingredient?
That’d have to be polysorbate 60. Not only is its name totally chemical and unfamiliar, but my little daughter asked me what it was, and I did not have a clue. Not one. Plus it was incredibly hard to find out how and where the stuff was made.
What was the most amazing thing you saw in your travels?
Hard to say. There’s the water-like elemental phosphorus (used to make baking powder) bursting into flame as it was poured out of a ladle, and the mine where the ore for baking soda comes from (I went down 1600 feet under the Wyoming plains and then got in an old Jeep and DROVE for 30 minutes). And I love visualizing the egg-breaking machine at a plant where they break 7,000,000 eggs a day. None of these things say “little, soft, sweet snack cake” to you.
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